Capt. Choppy took me into the Gulf of Mexico in May to swim with the dolphins, but we couldn’t get out of the boat because the waters were as choppy as his name.

He returns every day with visitors to a special spot near Shell Island at St. Andrews State Recreation Area off the coast of Panama City Beach, Fla., and loves nothing better than to talk about dolphin research and circle round and round to help you see some.

From the bouncing boat I counted dozens, and could actually see mamas and babies playing, and big dolphin tossing fish in the air in a game before dinner. Imagine on a calmer safe day what might be observed through your snorkeling mask.

Last time I was in Panama City, perhaps 15 years ago, I wasn’t impressed. In fact, the main reason for returning was simply to check out the claims that this beach is being re-nourished and that its personality is changing.

It seems to be true. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers launched a $30 million project in April to add an average of 30 feet to 16 of the 27 miles of beach here.

There are two distinct places, joined by the Hathaway Bridge which crosses St. Andrews Bay: Panama City and then Panama City Beach. Traveling partner G.W. Tibbetts and I were either so busy with the activities on the Beach side, or so relaxed in our three-night stay that we never checked out the city part.

The changing personality of the Beach area is evident with fast-paced construction along the water and the emergence of high-rise condominiums with units to purchase and to rent. Thirty properties are in redevelopment or refurbishing right now and owners expect their residents will demand top-quality and affordable eateries and entertainment.

Used to seem vacationers here were happy with a tattoo parlor, hot dog stand and six-pack, but a new mood was here this spring. We saw friendly families playing together on the beach, older couples strolling hand-in-hand, girlfriend getaway groups sunning and reading, and only one volleyball game — and it wasn’t overly loud.

Teens? No big groups of them. Twenty-somethings? Yes, but appearing to be several sets of friends enjoying the sun and sports in the day and karaoke at night.

None of these groups reminded me of my raucous college friends at the beach in 1969 when my alma mater, the University of Missouri, played Penn State in the Orange Bowl and we treated ourselves to a beach weekend. Thank goodness.

For this Panama City Beach experience we stayed in one of the recently-refurbished condos overlooking the ocean, Edgewater Beach Resort. Big windows and a balcony overlooking the lagoon-style swimming pool, lush vegetation and the ocean, with its parasails, jet skis and banana boats, suits G.W. just fine; an overview of the beach works for him since he packs more books than bathing suits.

He says this high-rise style is a nice change from all the years we rented houses on the beach to vacation with children. His reason? He can check in on whatever we’re doing by a glance out the window instead of trudging over the dunes to take a look — and then trudging right back.

Another reason to like this spot is the condo has all the conveniences of a beach house — washer and dryer and full kitchen, plus it provides the linens which we always used to haul ourselves. Here you can ask ahead for the grocery list, check off the items you prefer and find your pantry and refrigerator stocked when you arrive.

We didn’t do it because we liked the meals prepared by resident chef Shawn Koon so much we hardly ventured elsewhere to eat. I’d accept any invitation to a wedding, family reunion or conference in Edgewater Beach because their facilities are fine and varied — but for certain because the menu options for meals for special events are extraordinary.

Penthouse suites, beachfront patios and elegant formal dining rooms are all available for group events.

Even without a group, you can reserve cushions and umbrellas for the chairs on the beach and maid service for your rooms, too, but they’re extra.

Golf at Edgewater Beach isn’t pricey, because you can play nine holes for $14 on the casual executive par 3 and 4 course just a few steps from your high-rise condo or directly out the back door if you book a villa instead. The semi-private Hombre Golf Club is next door with courses nicknamed the “Good,” the “Bad” and the “Ugly” and a 73.4 course rating.

I took a lesson from the friendly pro which showed me well suited to do something else instead.

We ventured off the site, not because it was necessary for we could be well entertained right there, but to see if the other Panama City Beach offerings were pure kitsch or perhaps offered some substance.

Gulf World Marine Park provides a big contrast to the natural view of dolphins provided by Capt. Choppy because this experience is all about captivity and animal trainers. However, the presenters we heard in the dolphin, sea lion and parrot shows emphasized education, respect and understanding in the facts and cautions they shared as each guided her animals through demonstrations.

In fact anyone 12 or older can sign up in advance to be a “trainer for a day” to work directly with the animals and the staff. Dolphin Camp is a day-long learning experience for children 8-13, and even the swim-with-a-dolphin experience includes a classroom session about behaviors and conservation issues.

If you want a break from condo life, get a group together and sign up for an overnight experience at Gulf World Marine Park.

On the boat, Capt. Choppy had warned us against feeding the dolphin, for the $7,000 fine of course, but really because doing so encourages mamas to wean their babies too soon and then the babies beach themselves.

Here’s a fact that helped us believe this marine park is more about content and purpose than consumerism: it’s the area coordinator for the Southeast Stranding Network and offers long-term rehab for turtles, dolphins and small whales.

St. Andrews State Recreation Area offers a lovely counterpoint to the city skyline. The pure white sand — resulting from quartz crystals washing down from the Appalachian Mountains centuries ago and bleached until the Gulf of Mexico deposited them on the shore — is here, too.

With 1,260 acres and 1.5 miles of beach, St. Andrews gives you a place other than the oceanfront to hike; Blue Heron Trail, Gator Lake Trail and Button Bush Marsh feature lots of plants, wildlife, waterfowl, wading birds and flying birds.

We saw, but didn’t try this trip, fishing from the deep-sea jetty and we rejoiced that the dunes are covered with sea oats, sand pines, scrub oaks, rosemary and other hardy plants to help prevent erosion.

I did snorkel nearby at Shell Island, the pristine 700-acre barrier island reachable by shuttle boat, but I didn’t see any spectacular fish that afternoon.

Is everything top-notch quality in this redefining-itself Panama City Beach? Souvenir shops are a good test so we went to Alvin’s which has a branch on many corners; we went to the main one to get in the door and, yup, we saw lots more decorated coconut shells, key rings and air-brushed T-shirts than we’d ever want, but we also found the second floor with outstanding buys on fashionable casual clothing, not so beachy that it couldn’t be worn at home.

Miniature golf is abundant, the water park (doesn’t that seem crazy with an ocean available?) looked fun from the exterior and the zoo and botanical park claim to have 275 exotic and endangered animals on seven acres of lush tropical landscape.

Lunch at Schooner’s was fun and filling, especially if you order the house signature lobster cakes with red bell pepper cream sauce or the Gulf grouper sandwich dubbed the “best sandwich in the world” by Commander’s Palace executive chef Jaime Shannon, winter of the 1999 America’s Chef of the Year award from the James Beard Foundation. I had mine blackened, but grilled and fried are available too.

Go to Schooner’s at sunset and watch the daily firing of the canons as well as the changing light on the sea.

We went back to Edgewater Beach Resort instead, choosing the spa, tennis lessons and parasailing, all an easy walk from our front door.

Funny I couldn’t manage much with a golf ball but found it easy to soar right up over the emerald green waters and white sands hooked to a parasail. The scary part was the ride on the banana boat pulled by a jet ski to get from the shore to the parasailing boat.

Some things I try and quickly realize once was enough of that, but I’d parasail again. Even the on-purpose dips into the water, controlled by the captain, were calm and gentle, as was the speeding up to pull me back high in the sky on my 1,200 foot tether.

I guess you’re supposed to sightsee from that vantage point but my experience was all about floating and feeling surprisingly calm and safe.

Years ago I actually jumped out of a plane with a parachute and that memory still makes my heart race; parasailing was much easier.

In fact, the entire holiday in Panama City was easy and comfortable and pleasing.



For More Information

Panama City Beach

www.800pcbeach.com

800-327-8352



Edgewater Beach Resort

www.edgewaterbeachresort.com

800-331-6338

850-235-4044



Gulf World Marine Park

www.gulfworldmarinepark.com

850-234-5271