During the mid-1800s tens of thousands of individuals heading for the gold fields of California were fascinated by the unusual landscape in what is now a section of southern Idaho.

Dotted with granite spires, monoliths and arches up to 2.5 billion years old, the countryside was like nothing they had previously witnessed.

The exposed rocks — some of the oldest in the United States — protruding from the rolling hills had weathered and wasted to form unusual shapes that reminded more than a few of the travelers of an abandoned city. One emigrant described it in his journal as a “silent city of rocks.” The name stuck.

Before continuing, an apology. Although one of 424 units of the National Park Service, City of Rocks is not officially one of the system’s 63 national parks. NPS units fall into a number of classifications including national monuments, national battlefields, national historical parks and over a dozen other categories. City of Rocks is one of the system’s two national reserves, units in which management may be transferred to or shared with state or local authorities.

Nearing the final days of a two-week road trip through Utah, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon, we took the opportunity to visit the reserve. This land that once served as home to the Shoshone and Paiute is where the Salt Lake Alternate Trail merged with the main route of the historic California Trail. In 1852 alone, it is estimated more than 50,000 individuals passed through here on their way to California’s gold fields. Over six miles of the California Trail are within the reserve, most paralleling the park road between the Almo and Junction entrances. More than 350 emigrant signatures have been discovered on rocks within the reserve.

Homesteaders gave the area a try during the latter part of the 19th century, but dry farming was never easy and drought years of the 1920s and 1930s resulted in most throwing in the towel to all but livestock ranching that continues today. An interesting feature for current visitors is a 1904-05 rock house inhabited by several families prior to its burning in 1967. The remains are on private property near the reserve’s main road. A parking area is available for visitors who want a closer look.

The 14,407-acre reserve is unusual in that it is comprised of federal land (10,127 acres), private land (3,745 acres), and state land (640 acres). Legislation establishing the reserve required preservation of the area’s historic and natural features. A historic preservation zone created by the county limits the number of residences and requires land use within most of the reserve be consistent with that existing in 1988 or earlier. The reserve is surrounded by public land owned by the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service. It is managed by the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation with the National Park Service providing oversight and technical assistance. Funding for the reserve’s operating expenses is approximately an even split between the two organizations.

A visitor center in the small town of Almo offers maps, guide booklets and limited souvenirs. A ¼-mile loop trail begins on the east side of the visitor center parking lot. The reserve is especially popular with rock climbers who have access to hundreds of climbing routes that range from easy to difficult. Individuals interested in learning to rock climb can call the reserve visitor center (208-824-5901) and inquire about the availability of instructors. A survey indicated 50% of reserve visitors list rock climbing as their primary activity. As a couple that huffs and puffs getting up a steep hill, we’re not rock climbers but thoroughly enjoyed our own visit to City of Rocks National Reserve. Entrance to the reserve is free while a fee of $7 per vehicle is required for entry to neighboring Castle Rocks State Park.

Visitors wishing to camp can choose either the reserve’s 69 unimproved campsites (fire rings, picnic tables, vault toilets) or a developed campground in the state park’s Smoky Mountain Unit located southwest of the visitor center. The latter has flush toilets and showers in a central bathhouse. Two additional bathrooms with vault toilets are also available. Reservations are required for all campsites in both the reserve and the state park. For travelers who long ago put their tent in permanent storage, a larger unit of the state park a short distance north of Almo offers more upscale accommodations including a ranch house ($195-$215) that can sleep up to eight, a bunkhouse ($120-$132) with hostel-style lodging that can accommodate up to 12 and an upscale yurt ($150-$155) with a king bed and electric fireplace. In considering the latter consider the bathroom is 500 feet distant, a lengthy stroll on a moonless night.

David and Scott are authors of “Exploring the Oregon Trail: America’s Historic Road Trip” (Globe Pequot). They live in Valdosta, Georgia. Visit them at blog.valdosta.edu/dlscott